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Probably not strictly required but does stop it moving around

You should be ok to go slightly over. The main thing is to get drill bits to match the magnet sizes you are going to use. You can use the butt end of the drill bit to check to make sure there is enough space for the magnet just by holding it against the part

@@GoodEnoughWargaming Oh hey, thanks for the info

I’d also probably just invest in the drill bits for the magnets so that I don’t have to cut with my knife, it’s getting on in safety and I don’t want another cut or even a hole again.

Boy, don’t I feel dumb, already saw the Knights last year. Still sick though.

Yeah you want to use drills for the small magnets, up to say 4mm. Glad you found it useful

I still haven't painted mine. Keep changing my mind on which chapter to paint it for...

Glad it was useful! You should check out this one on the ad mech archeopter flier. ruclips.net/video/oCGvLWIdjBA/видео.html

Bargain, at that price it would be foolish not to ;)

Nice. Just don't get too obsessed with magnetising everything ;) I've a few models in the pile of shame I'm putting off building until I work out how to magnetise them.

Good luck. Take your time and you should be fine

You can, doing the different barrels to the common chassis isn't that hard. The gap is big enough so you can stick fairly large magnets in so it won't fall off. But then you're left with the problem of all the other bits you normally glue to the chassis (fuel tanks etc). If you're happy to leave them off then go for it ;)

For contrast paints you have to leave them alone to dry. So you put it on then use the brush to get it in place and remove any excess then just leave it alone.

It's just the thermal cannon and battle cannon that share bits. You can magnetise the gun from the shield part so you can glue the barrels to their shield and put a magnet in that then a matching magnet in the body of the gun so you can swap between them. The gatling cannon is on another sprue and has it's own bits. You can see them if you look at the pictures of the sprues on the gw store

Plus your can just 3d print more guns, that's what I've done for the cerastus knights ;)

You're welcome ;)

I keep meaning to, but it's hard to find the time. Plus my hobby room is a complete mess, makes it difficult to record anything. I'll try to get something out soon

Btw, is there anything in particular you would like to see me cover? I've a few ideas but it's always hard to tell which videos will do well and which won't

@@GoodEnoughWargaming there’s a cyclic ion blaster conversion turtorial you can make a quick short out of it it takes a flamer and a half along with a plasma rifle search up cyclic ion blaster conversion on google and go to images you’ll see it a turtorial on that would be sick just something quick you know

@@GoodEnoughWargaming thanks for responding maybe some kitbash tips or conversions?

rare earth magnets usually last a pretty long time

It's always a good idea to start small and simple, really helps build up confidence for doing a crazy conversion!

@@GoodEnoughWargaming The big idea that I have for the future is to basically make a version of Rough Riders that have Demigryph mounts instead of normal horses, it will definitely involve a bunch of sourcing parts and likely 3D printing but I think the end product will be a really cool unique unit to put on table

Sounds cool. 3d printing is a hobby by itself :)

Thanks, it's such a simple technique but looks so good!

So long as the weapons are in the kit. I think the imperial knight crusader kit has them all in there, and this method will let you swap between all the ones in that kit (and whatever else you can source, like third party ones or 3d printed or whatever)

@@GoodEnoughWargaming Okk I’m trying to figure this out as I have a second hand leftover kit with an extra set of each shield.

Try it and see. If you don't glue the trust top to the base then you can easily add the centre magnet if you think it's needed. It's been a while but I think I added it only cos the main gun was dropping. You could add the centre magnet to the turret and only add the matching one to the long gun if you think that's the only one that needs it...

Feel free to swipe that idea by the way

or good enough i guess xD

What questions did I miss? Always keen to include as much as I can.

I've had a few issues with just the large drill, but you probably don't need all three. Smallest one as a pilot hole then the larger one should be fine.

High praise indeed! Glad you found it useful.

Just take your time and be careful when using a knife. I cut myself just yesterday doing some trimming/clean up on an imperial knight kit. Then I forgot about it until I put my finger into some isopropyl alcohol later in the evening....

@@GoodEnoughWargaming I'll be extra careful. Knives just seem to want to cut me. lol. I can handle firearms with perfect safety but put a knife into my hands and it all goes tits up. Seriously tho, i'll be careful.

I do like me some 3d printing as well

I just get them off Amazon, you could probably find cheaper on eBay or whatever if you're willing to wait for shipping, but I'm impatient.

@@GoodEnoughWargaming thanks for the intel

You shouldn't need to use a knife to cut the parts off the sprue. Clippers should be enough.

LOL Okay.

ruclips.net/video/MJiC-c2VoTk/видео.html At about 2:50 he explains how it's done. It requires a small amount of extra effort, but solves the problem you had. No clippers I have ever seen can make an acceptable clean flush cut. Hope this helps.@@GoodEnoughWargaming

Thank you!

You could buy a magnet that's got different colours for the north and south poles and use that as a master. I usually don't care that much about North South, I just try to make sure all models that will use the same weapons are magnetised the same way. Like I'd do my tau battle suits all the same, but I don't care if they match my Imperial Knights for example.

Hope you found it helpful ;)

No. The normal build instructions mean you glue the gun around the shoulder post, to magnetise you cut the end off the shoulder post and replace it with a magnet then you put a magnet inside the gun where the shoulder post would usually be (making sure to watch out for the polarity of the magnets). That way you can do all the weapons with the two shoulder posts that come in the kit

Check to make sure your needle tip isn't bent, if it is that can cause posting to clog. Also white paint seems to clog faster. If it's drying on the tip and causing clogs you can try adding a few drops of retarder to the thinner to slow that down. Cheap brushes use cheap needles and those can have more imperfections that cause paint to dry and clog. Having said all that, the paint does need to be thin to work, skimmed milk is what's often used as a standard to measure by.

I find the primer is just easier to put on when thinned. I don't tend to use a lot, it's just something for the paint to bond to other than the raw plastic. But I always say try out different methods yourself and see what works best for you. It's usually a good idea to follow manufacturers instructions, at least the first time, but I always find myself experimenting, probably when I never get anything done, too busy trying stuff

It's my DIY candy metallic. You just start off with a nice, bright metallic silver, then use a mix of acrylic gloss medium with a few drops of acrylic ink, all things down to go through the airbrush.

@@GoodEnoughWargaming awesome thank you!

Best to test it out on bits of sprue or the like. Just until you get it right

Nice! It's always daunting to start knowing if you mess it up there's no going back

It's one of my favourite contrast paints

I do love the sisters stuff, like "what if we made a tank but a church!?"

It might work ok. The arms aren't that heavy